The Taj by moonlight
Three days late at the start, the family still reached Agra on the full-moon night and watched the marble glow silver-blue from six hundred metres away.
On the nightA family of four, one white XUV and 12,619 kilometres of India, in fifty-two nights.
A travelogue by Bipin Cyriac
The full story of fifty-three days and 12,619 kilometres, with photographs from the road, maps of every leg and the day-by-day log. Printed and shipped from Kochi.
Growing up in Irinjalakuda in the eighties, Bipin Cyriac lived in two worlds at once. One was red-tiled roofs, monsoon-soaked school uniforms and temple festivals. The other lived between the covers of Amar Chitra Katha, where Shiva sat on Kailash, Shivaji rode out of his hill forts and Chetak cleared the stream at Haldighati.
When he was thirteen, a family trip to Ajanta and Ellora ended at Ahmednagar, the day before, because his father fell ill with a fever. Two years later, in forty-five minutes, he wrote a prize-winning Malayalam poem about an imaginary pilgrimage across India. In its last verse, the young pilgrim completes only a quarter of the journey and turns back home on weary legs.
Thirty years, a career, a marriage, two children and a decade in Doha later, the rest of that journey was still waiting. Then, one evening in Kakkanad, his twelve-year-old daughter said something.
We have been to so many places outside India, but we haven't travelled much within India, right? I wish we could travel around India.Maria, aged twelve, late 2015
Six months later, on 5 May 2016, a white Mahindra XUV500 with the number plate KL 45 N 2445 rolled out of Mather Green Hills under a chequered flag. Inside were Bipin, his wife Reetha, Maria and six-year-old Cyril. The plan had only two fixed points: the Taj Mahal on the full-moon night of 21 May, and home at Irinjalakuda by 6 p.m. on 24 June, in time for Mummy's memorial.
The opening and closing verses, as printed in the school annual magazine, with the author's English translation.
കാൽനടയായി ഞാനാരംഭിച്ചൊരുനാൾ ഭാരതത്തിലൂടൊരു ദീർഘയാത്ര. എൻ മാതൃഭൂമി തന്നന്തരാത്മാവിനെ തൊട്ടറിയാനുള്ള തീർത്ഥയാത്ര.കാൽനടയായി ഞാനാരംഭിച്ചൊരുനാൾ ഭാരതത്തിലൂടൊരു തീർത്ഥയാത്ര. കാൽഭാഗം മാത്രം ഞാൻ പൂർത്തിയാക്കി കാൽകുഴഞ്ഞിങ്ങുതിരിച്ചുപോന്നു.
On foot, one day, I set out on a long journey across Bharat — a pilgrimage to touch and know the inner soul of my motherland.On foot, one day, I set out on a pilgrimage across Bharat. Only a quarter of it I completed, then, legs weary, I turned back home.
In the summer of 2016 he made the whole of it. Not on foot and not alone, as he had imagined, but with his family, in a white car with his own old phone number on its plates.
The book follows the road in eleven parts. Each milestone shows the part number and its dates.
Irinjalakuda · Doha · Kakkanad · 1980s to the flag-off
Practice runs in a Maruti Swift, a car bought on a loan, a school director won over with a presentation, a lost phonebook the night before, and a send-off from teachers and a ninety-six-year-old great-grand-aunt.
Kerala · Karnataka · Goa · Maharashtra
Counting rivers up the Malabar coast, Vasco da Gama's pillar at Kappad, the strip of road between river and sea at Maravanthe, a warship on the beach at Karwar, golden hour at Aguada, and the climb up the Amboli ghat to Shivaji's Pune.
Maharashtra · Gujarat
A mountain carved from the top down at Ellora, and Ajanta at last, thirty years late, at 54°C on the dashboard. An unplanned night at Shirdi, lunch among the vines at Nashik, and two restful nights with an old friend in Valsad.
Gujarat · Rajasthan · Uttar Pradesh
Learning to spin khadi at Sabarmati, Louis Kahn's brick at IIM Ahmedabad, Udaipur's lakes, Jaipur in the hottest week India had ever recorded, and the promise kept: the Taj Mahal under the full moon on 21 May.
Delhi · Haryana · Chandigarh · Punjab
Maria's civics textbook comes alive on Raisina Hill. Beef curry at Kerala House, the battlefields of Panipat and Kurukshetra, the Beating Retreat at Attari–Wagah, the langar at the Golden Temple and a silent morning at Jallianwala Bagh.
Jammu & Kashmir
Nights with the Sikh Regiment, Katra's self-driving donkeys, a landslide on the Jammu–Srinagar highway, bikers from Kochi at Titanic View Point, sledging at Chandanwari, and snow at 1.7°C on the Gulmarg Gondola.
Himachal Pradesh · Uttarakhand · Uttar Pradesh
A poet's welcome in Shimla and the old Viceregal Lodge, hailstones near Solan, litchis in Dehradun, the ghats of Haridwar, and a night without electricity inside Corbett while the laundry got done at a Mahindra resort.
Uttar Pradesh · Bihar · Jharkhand · West Bengal
Cyril learns to write Hindi in Lucknow. Lamps on the Ganga at Varanasi, the deer park at Sarnath, a frightening chase on the Grand Trunk Road, cashews from home in a Dhanbad hotel room, and the City of Joy.
West Bengal · Odisha · Andhra Pradesh · Telangana
Breakfast beside a steam locomotive, the stone chariot wheels of Konark, carpenters building the Rath Yatra chariots in Puri, a day inside a submarine at Vizag, the Godavari grown into a giant, and biryani twice in Hyderabad.
Telangana · Andhra · Karnataka · Tamil Nadu · Kerala
The musical pillars of Hampi, Hoysala stone like lace at Belur and Halebidu, Gommateshwara on his hill, the trip meter touching 12,445 km, and the last drive home to Irinjalakuda for Mummy's memorial.
What the road taught us
A classroom on wheels, ninety-two rivers and thirty-seven petrol pumps, and what the family missed and found. With appendices listing every river, every toll plaza and every day of the journey.
Planned: 12,445 km. Driven: 12,619 km. Across the whole of India, the estimate was out by 1.4 per cent.
The plan was a map, not a cage. Stops moved, Ladakh was dropped and Shirdi was added. Only two lines in the plan were never allowed to move.
Three days late at the start, the family still reached Agra on the full-moon night and watched the marble glow silver-blue from six hundred metres away.
On the nightAfter nearly five hundred kilometres from Bengaluru on the last day, they drove into Irinjalakuda at eight in the evening, in time for the memorial the next morning.
Two hours late, after 1,200 on the road| Plan and reality | Planned | Actual | Difference |
|---|---|---|---|
| Start | 2 May | 5 May, 10 a.m. | 3 days late; the car arrived on 3 May |
| Duration | 55 days | 52 nights | −5.5% |
| Distance | 12,445 km | 12,619 km | +1.4% |
| Arrival home | 24 Jun, 6 p.m. | 24 Jun, 8 p.m. | Under 0.2% of the time on the road |
The children missed four weeks of class. In return, Maria walked through most of her seventh and eighth standard social science syllabus.
Back at school, whenever his teacher mentioned a place, six-year-old Cyril would put up his hand and say, "I've been there." It happened so often that she started calling him Al-Biruni, after the eleventh-century scholar who came to India as a stranger and left as a student.
We left as tourists. We came home as students.
दर्शन · ദർശനം · noun · sight; a seeing
The word has travelled into almost every Indian language, including Malayalam. Its simplest meaning is "sight". In Indian tradition it means more: to see, and to be seen by, something sacred. A deity in a temple, a saint, a holy mountain, a great river. You come away changed.
The family set out to see India's forts, temples, rivers and mountains. They also saw the goodness of ordinary Indians: a school director who turned a departure into a celebration, a retired Colonel who gave a stranger his atlas, soldiers and sailors who opened their messes, a poet who welcomed a boy who had once written a poem.
This book is my darshan. I hope it is the beginning of yours. Go and see India. It is waiting for you.
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